Resolution and HDR sound like the most important monitor specs, and they are also the ones marketing stretches the most. Resolution affects how sharp text and detail look. HDR affects how bright and rich the picture can get. Both depend on screen size in ways the box does not explain, so here is the plain version.
Resolution basics
Resolution is how many pixels the screen has, written as width by height. More pixels can show more detail. Here are the common ones.
| Name | Pixels | Common sizes |
|---|---|---|
| 1080p (Full HD) | 1920 by 1080 | 22 to 25 inch |
| 1440p (QHD) | 2560 by 1440 | 27 inch |
| 4K (UHD) | 3840 by 2160 | 27 to 32 inch and up |
| Ultrawide 1440p | 3440 by 1440 | 34 inch |
| Ultrawide 4K | 5120 by 2160 | 38 to 40 inch |
Why size matters as much as resolution
The same resolution looks sharp on a small screen and grainy on a big one, because the pixels are spread over more space. So the real question is not just the resolution, it is how the resolution and screen size pair up. The shorthand for this is pixels per inch, or PPI: higher PPI means a sharper picture.
| Size | 1080p | 1440p | 4K |
|---|---|---|---|
| 24 inch | Fine | Very sharp | Overkill |
| 27 inch | Looks grainy | Sharp (sweet spot) | Excellent |
| 32 inch | Poor | Fine | Sharp |
What HDR actually is
Normal video (called SDR) is fairly dim and limited. HDR content is mastered to be much brighter, with deeper shadows and richer colors, so a sunset or an explosion can really pop. When it works, HDR looks closer to real life.
The trick is that HDR only looks good when three things line up: the content is made in HDR, your monitor can truly display HDR (not just claim to), and your PC or game is sending the HDR signal correctly. Any one of those being off is why HDR sometimes looks worse than SDR, especially on Windows.
Reading the HDR labels
The label on the box tells you whether the HDR is real or just a sticker. Here is the short version.
- DisplayHDR 400
- The lowest tier and basically a marketing label. These monitors usually look the same in HDR as in SDR. Do not buy a monitor for its HDR based on this.
- DisplayHDR 600
- Where real HDR starts. Brighter, with local dimming. A genuine, if modest, HDR experience.
- DisplayHDR 1000
- Real, punchy HDR. Common on Mini-LED monitors.
- True Black 400 or 500 (OLED)
- An OLED tier. The brightness numbers look lower, but with perfect blacks the HDR looks excellent. Do not be put off by the smaller number.
Color, briefly
You will see color terms like sRGB and DCI-P3 on spec sheets. In plain terms, they describe how many colors the screen can show.
- sRGB
- The standard range for the web and everyday content. Almost every monitor covers this fully.
- DCI-P3
- A wider range used by HDR and movies. Good HDR monitors cover most of it, which makes colors look richer.
- Adobe RGB
- A range that matters mainly for print and photo editing. Only worth checking if you do that kind of work.
How to read any monitor spec sheet
You do not need to understand every line. Pull out the few specs that decide your experience and ignore the rest.
- Size and resolution together, to judge sharpness (aim for sharp, like 27 inch 1440p or 4K).
- Panel type, for the kind of picture you want (see the panel guide).
- HDR tier, to know if the HDR is real (600 or higher, or True Black on OLED).
- Refresh rate, for how smooth motion feels.
- Ports, to make sure it connects to your PC or laptop.
More monitors guides
- Monitor panel types: IPS, VA, TN, OLEDThe screen tech inside every monitor: what each type is good and bad at, and which one to buy for what you do.
- Refresh rate, response time, and smooth motionWhat Hz and response time really mean, why screens blur even when they are fast, and the settings that make motion look its best.